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How to fill a sketchbook: a visit to Mallorca

Mallorca cathedral
Palma's cathedral dominates the landscape

Never thought I would like Mallorca, thinking it was full of youth drinking too much, shouting too much, being sick and getting into trouble. That's a small minority. I visited the south, but if you head up to the north of the island, it's a different story entirely. The south is where most of the package holidayers go and the busiest resorts include Magaluf and Palma Nova. My favourite place by far was Palma, the main town. There's lots for artists to discover here and many stunning photo or sketching opportunities.

The airport is in Palma, so it makes sense to start here if you plan to do a tour of the island.

Palma's Cathedral

Palma's Gothic cathedral is visible for miles around, perched above the town. It was begun in the 13th century, but has been remodelled several times, most famously by Gaudi in the 20th century. There is a small admission charge, but it is worth paying just to see the stained glass windows, which when the sunlight floods through them cast jewel-like colours on the floor.

The interior is a mixture of old and new, which blend together well. The newer additions seem to attract the biggest crowds, especially one area which is covered in sea creatures that seem to be swimming up the walls.

interior cathedral interior cathedral
Part of the interior has a "fishy" theme.
If you look close, fish appear to be swimming and poking out from the walls.
The main altar has interesting lamps hanging down from the ceiling.

The streets around the cathedral in Palma

You can spend a day rambling around the old part of Palma, stopping for cafe con leche (coffee with milk) or sangria and tapas at the many cafes, restaurants and bars along the way. I visited the Banys Arabs (Arab Baths), which is a peaceful little oasis, tucked away in the backstreets near the cathedral. There is a small admission charge and it is signposted. La Rambla is one of the city's main promenades, a tree-lined avenue where you can buy flowers. You can also walk along the Passeig Maritim (seafront promenade) and admire the many yachts.

walkway near the cathedral
You can stroll around the outside of the cathedral, before walking along the harbour front.
Arab Baths La Rambla Passeig Maritim
The Arab Baths are not far from the cathedral. Inside there is a small courtyard garden. When you walk through the doorway you can still see the ancient baths inside.
La Rambla is an attractive avenue where you can buy flowers or just sit and watch the world go by.
The Passeig Maritim starts near the cathedral and you can stroll along it until you reach the ship terminal at the end. This is a pleasant walk both during the day and in the evening.

Palma to Soller and Port de Soller

It seems to be on every tourists agenda, to take the ride on a rickety old train to Soller, wander about for a few hours and then take an old tram to the port. Even though Soller seems a bit of a tourist trap, its charms still make it a worthwhile place to visit. On a hot day (and there are many in Mallorca), you can sit in the main square for hours in one of the many cafes and watch the tram tootle up and down the square heading for the port. Or you can peruse the selection of interesting shops, ranging from jewellery, shoes, fabric, Mallorca pearls to art materials and small galleries.

View from train to Soller
There are amazing views on the train to Soller. You will see fruits growing on trees, including oranges and lemons.
Banco de Soller Soller main square
Enjoy lunch in the shady main square of Soller, before strolling around the narrow streets. At some points during the day, tourists seem to outnumber the locals.
Soller streets
The main square leads off into narrow, attractive streets. You can't get lost, just head back towards the spire of the church, which is in the main square.
There are some interesting buildings in the main square, including this old bank that is elaborately decorated on the outside.
Galleries in Soller Picasso ceramics Picasso ceramics
The train station is at the top of a hill and you walk down into the small village. At the train station is a small museum with Picasso ceramics and Miro paintings.
The Picasso ceramics are beautifully presented.
I especially liked this white relief design on a white background.

After trundling along on the dinky tram to the port, you can enjoy gorgeous views from a harbourside cafe. You can return to Palma on an express bus, or enjoy a trip from the port on a boat.

Cafe in Port de Soller sketch of Port de Soller Port de Soller
While sitting in one of the harbourside cafes, I drew the sketch (right).
I sketched this with Inktense pencils and a black pen. You can add water to the pencils to create a paint effect.
You can walk up to the lighthouse situated at the edge of the port.

Palma Nova

Palma Nova can be reached on the many frequent buses from Palma. It is a family resort, quieter in nature than its neighbours Magaluf and Torrenova. It mostly consists of hotels, a long busy beach and cafes, bars and restaurants.

Palma Nova beach sketch of Port de Soller Port de Soller
Artists create fantastic sand sculptures on the beach, which they light up at night.
You can visit waterparks such as Aqualand not far from Magaluf or Palma Nova.
Marineland is in the neighbourhood too, where you can see penguins, sea lions, turtles, dolphins and parrots.
Katmandu
Katmandu is a new, unique attraction near Palma Nova. You can't miss it, an upside-down building in the centre of the resort. Its exhibits illustrate the Katmandu story, including optical illusions, intricately carved replica boats, automated sculptures and an ice cave maze.
sketch of Port de Soller Port de Soller
Even at the entrance to the attraction, you know you are in for a curious experience.
Watch as one exhibit changes from skeleton to fully fleshed mermaid.